Towards the end of last year, I had the privilege of staying at the much lauded TWA Hotel at JFK Airport in Queens, New York City.
Opening in May 2019 (in fact, I was there for that!), the hotel brings together a 1960s aesthetic with modern comforts and charm. Within its walls they have engineered an environment guaranteed to give you a good night’s rest. Such is the necessity of any airport hotel, and for this, the TWA Hotel passes with flying colours. But this place is so, so much more. It’s like Disneyland for travel nerds.
In the article ahead, I’ll be reviewing the ins and outs of this marvelous hotel, as well as providing some insights into how you, too, can experience it. Because many amenities are available for travelers regardless if you’re staying at the hotel or not. Read on!
Getting to the Hotel
You want to get yourself to Terminal 5 at JFK to access the hotel. If you’re driving in, that will be pretty straight forward. However, if you end up at a different terminal, you’ll want to jump on the AirTrain. You’ll see the TWA logo on the map when you’re in the AirTrain, so there won’t be any confusion as to where you need to get off.
Use of the AirTrain between Terminals is free, however you’ll also use the AirTrain if you’re arriving from Manhattan via the MTA Subway.
The AirTrain to the MTA Subway now costs $8.50 USD, whether you’re arriving or departing from JFK. However, you no longer need a MTA MetroCard. You can just tap in and out with your credit card.
Once in Terminal 5, I was directed to access it from street level. There’s clear signage all the way, but as it’s the only on-site hotel at JFK, people will easily be able to direct you. And once you’re there, you can’t miss it. They even have some classic cars sitting permanently out the front to ensure the immersive 1960s theming starts before you’ve even entered the building.
From the moment you step foot in the building, you’ll see how well they’ve utilised the building’s design and original purpose. Once through the front doors, you’ll head to check in at one of the TWA counters, in front of the luggage belts and understand what I mean.
Exploring the former TWA Terminal
Originally designed by Eero Saarinen, and opening in 1962, the TWA Terminal (known then as the Trans World Flight Center) sits today not too dissimilar from how it would have looked on opening day. And restoring the terminal to its glory days was very much the intent of developers of the hotel project, who sought to fill every nook and cranny of the building with a 1962 aesthetic.
The result is something of a time capsule of a very different era of airplane travel, one that was still then a privilege of the upper middle class.
The curved structure is as stunning now as it would have been back then, and exploring the space is a delight, be it morning, afternoon or evening. The massive windows make sure that the light hits the space in a variety of ways. The red carpets and upholsteries are vibrant and new, while faithful to the original designs. Meanwhile, classic split-flap display signage around the airport terminal / hotel lobby has been custom repurposed to work as it might have in 1962, but with messaging just for their 2025 guests.
Look out through the hotel for an artworks designed with regularly split-flap display technology – such as upstairs at the entry to the rooftop pool area, as seen below.
The lobby serves as a place to dine, have a drink, buy special TWA branded items from their gift shop, and explore some of the installations they have throughout the space. But you have the rest of the stay to enjoy that. It’s the architecture of the building that you’ll want to sit with first. And there’s two floors to enjoy, with a footbridge extending across – all while music from the 50s and 60s plays through the former terminal.
And as I said, this space is perfectly lit be it day or night.
But let’s take you to your hotel room before we spend more time immersing ourselves in this incredible space.
The Hotel Room
The hotel rooms sit off two picture perfect wings of the terminal, which once would have taken you to your gates – the red carpeted treatment knowing no end.
These corridors, if you follow them to their end, will take you to some more of the hotel’s installations, which we’ll take you to later in the article. Otherwise, you’ll turn off a bit sooner to one of the two hotel towers.
I had a room on the ground floor, with a very comfortable King Bed in the centre of a non-carpeted room. I guess the red carpet treatment does know when to stop. Sitting on each side of the bed are lamps that continue the red theming, with also a nudge towards designs of the 60s era. A comfortable red seat sits in the corner of the room, against a massive window that looks out over the actual JFK Terminal 5. Being on the ground floor I enjoyed a view of the cars driving by, too, and the giant JetBlue signage. And as with any good airport hotel – blackout curtains are supplied, which can be moved on the push of a button. And while the theming is from the 60s, the amenities are all modern. For one, you’ll find a wireless phone charger with USB plugs next to the bed.
Behind the bed feature a number of classic TWA posters, promoting the destinations of the era: Egypt, Paris and, a personal favourite, Disneyland. If they were to ever sell copies of that poster in the gift shop, I would buy it in a heartbeat – just as a sidenote to the hotel.
While the red carpets may be gone here, the luxury treatment does continue, with a fancy bar area, with beautiful wine glasses and tumblers provided. There’s a mini fridge for you as well. They were unstocked when I was there, but there was a note that they would be again, sometime in the future – presumably with typical mini bar items. And while there’s no wardrobe, they have hooks to hang on the wall, with a couple of golden coat hangers, and a TWA branded do not disturb sign (that you can also take home a version of in the gift shop!). And do make sure you put it on your door if you have the opportunity to sleep in – I heard them waking other rooms up from 8am.
Elsewhere in the room, you’ll find a small drawer under a stool where you can put your bag and a chair next to the window. Meanwhile, the bathroom will make you feel like you’re doing your makeup for Broadway – with globes shining on either side of the mirror. Here you’ll also find tissues, TWA branded soap, a hair dryer and a steamer.
They are pushing to be “The Greenest Building in New York”, so they have refillable amenities bottles on the wall of the shower – with shampoo, conditioner and body cleaner. There’s also only one small bin in the bathroom. The rest of the rubbish, particularly recyclables, they want you to leave on the table underneath the massive wall mounted TV (with 60+ channels). It’s the first time I’ve seen a waste desposal system like that.
I loved the lighting throughout the room, it made for great ambience. And the theming was terrific – from the obvious posters, to the TWA logos on the soap and the bathroom floor towels. The air conditioning was perfect, and the sound proofing impressive – I could only hear when police were going past with their intense sirens and speakers telling cars to move. Which is a more regular occurrence at an airport than you might expect it to be. The bed was very comfortable – though I prefer larger pillows – and the water pressure of the shower was tremendous. It heated up very quick, too.
Internet is also fast and free, just head to Twafastwifi. No login is required.
On Site Dining
Though the minibar was empty, there are dining options in the hotel 24 hours a day. The food hall, which sits near the front door of the terminal, serves a variety of food all day. You’ll find all day crepes, items like chicken wings and pizza, and bagels and omelets in the morning. Everything I ate there was great quality, if a little expensive. This is an airport after all, so everything comes with a bit of a premium.
You can take your food up to your room, or enjoy seats and tables that are spread out around the hotel. There are seats and tables and benches out on the tarmac too, for when the weather is good enough. And though it’s not open 24 hours a day, the Paris Cafe by Jean-Georges offers a more extensive dining menu, in a traditional table service environment. Reservations are recommended, but walk-ins are welcome.
Have a drink with Connie
If you’re in the mood for a drink, you might get one in the lobby bar – though if it’s between 4pm and 1030pm, you have to get a drink with Connie.
Connie is a 1958 Lockheed constellation airplane that has been repurposed into a cocktail lounge. And they have done an incredible job. The exterior is built to look like it did in the 50s, while the interior has been custom fitted with artwork running along its walls, special lighting, and cocktail lounge seating right in front of the bar.
You can also sit in some of the old seats that might have been used on an airplane like this in the 50s and 60s.
Speaking again to the attention to detail, paraphernalia that had been provided on TWA flights in the 50s has been reprinted for your reading pleasure. The plane may no longer be flight ready, but they’ve ensured you can experience what it was like from the time that it was.
Once you purchase your drink – and I do recommend paying extra for the TWA glass you can take home with you – you are welcome to walk around the hotel with it. I even took it up to the rooftop pool and enjoyed as I went for a late night swim.
The Rooftop Infinity Pool…
Taking a visit up to their heated rooftop infinity pool is a must, no matter what time of year it is. Towels are provided, and the views are incredible. There’s also dining available in The Pool Bar, which becomes a chalet in the wintertime. You’ll see it was just about to open for the season in the photo above.
Use of the pool is not entirely straightforward, and generally requires reservations. Even for hotel guests, there’s a cost to use the pool from 10.45am onwards ($25 for adults, $10 for children), if you’re visiting in the peak months. It’s entirely free for hotel guests, however, between 1st November and 1st May. And in the peak months, the free hours are just from 7am to 10.45am. While these rules are frustrating for those wanting to visit the pool on a whim, it ensures that a) the pool can be used by hotel guests and general public alike and b) that when you’re up there, it’s not absolutely packed.
I had the pool to myself when I reserved a spot in the evening of my arrival, whiskey in hand from Connie. It was a cold night, but the heated pool was enough to make the stay a pleasant one. It reminded me of sitting in the rooftop spa at the Ace Hotel in Los Angeles. Except here, you’re watching the planes take off and baring witnessing to human innovation and ingenuity in action. It’s moments like this, in the quiet of a pool, while the roar of planes pass you by, that you remember how rarely you get a chance to simply stand (it’s a shallow pool, so this is accurate) and marvel at it all. I’m truly grateful for these moments.
For more details, and to make a reservation, be you hotel guest or just visiting, head HERE.
A living museum…
The TWA Hotel is as much a museum as it is a hotel. And there are a wide range of free installations to enjoy for all who visit the space.
The installations that run through the hotel are both designed as photo opportunities, and also a snapshot of the early 1960s in America. On the ground floor, you’ll find a Sweet and Low themed faux hairdressers, “Sweet and Glow”.
A more recent addition is the Twister room, which recreates the classic game (and yes you can spin the counters on the wall) with a twist. I’d br surprised if anyone actually tried to play the game with these odd shaped circles – though I would love to see it.
At the ends of the corridors that also take you to the hotel rooms, you’ll find furnishings of 1962 life. On one side, you’ll find the design aesthetics of a home in 1962.
You’ll also find an office of the same era – perhaps inspired by the architect who designed the very building you are standing in.
You’ll also find the office of Howard Hughes, who at one point was an owner of TWA. Ironically, at the time this terminal opened, he had lost his control of the airline. But they nonetheless pay tribute to his influence on the airline, and on the building of this terminal, with this photo opportunity with his actual desk, and The Howard Hughes Suite being the largest room you can get in the hotel. While that room will cost you a pretty penny, poking your head into “The Pope’s Room” upstairs in the terminal will cost you nothing. This is where the Pope was believed to have relaxed before his flight with TWA.
Near here you’ll also see an exhibit of all the uniforms worn by TWA employees over the years.
Also look out for the pay phones – which have some interactive elements for those who don’t want to make a 10c phone call. And there are photo booths that are also free, with black and white or colour pictures available. They print them out AND give you a digital copy too. Who says you can’t get free things in NYC? I certainly did.
Experiences for non-hotel guests
The TWA Hotel is open to all, with dining, shopping and the retrospective displays all on offer. Some of which are open 24 hours a day, and most of which is free! So if you happen to have a stopover at JFK, head to Terminal 5 and check it out for yourself.
Guest passes are also available for purchase for the impressive downstairs fitness centre for $25 (it’s complimentary for hotel guests), and the pool for $25 as well. Though it’s not open 24 hours, and mornings (7am-1045am) are reserved for hotel guests only. Head HERE for more details.
Final Verdict
Seeing the TWA former terminal restored in all its glory is worth the trip to JFK alone. Architecture like this is all too rare.
Part living museum, part choose your own adventure, part airport accommodation – The TWA Hotel is the best airport hotel in the world, period. The attention to detail is second-to-none, as they freeze the building in a 1962 aesthetic that couldn’t have been recreated anywhere else but here, at the original TWA Terminal.
The amenities as a hotel guest are terrific, with terrific service from the staff. And you must give yourself plenty of time to enjoy everything the experience has to offer. Including, of course, the rooftop infinity pool. I spent every minute I could exploring all the details they put throughout the building. So much love has gone into making it something really special.
I definitely will return not just as a hotel guest, but whenever I’m passing through JFK. There’s just nowhere else like it.
FIVE STARS (OUT OF FIVE)
The TWA Hotel is located at JFK Airport in Queens, New York City. 1 Idlewild Dr, Queens, NY 11430, United States.
To book your stay at the TWA Hotel, head to twahotel.com
The author stayed at the TWA at his own expense, for one night, with a media rate. Photos by the author unless otherwise credited. All prices in USD and correct at the time of booking.
