Have you ever been asked to think of somewhere peaceful while sitting in a guided meditation class? That one tranquil place in your mind that makes you feel utterly relaxed? Well, Bumi Kinar has become that place for me.
Just outside the hustle and bustle of central Ubud in Bali, you’ll find sprawling grounds dotted with palm trees – the sounds of motorbikes and beeping horns replaced with birdcall and the dull roar of the Petanu River. Bumi Kinar (earth and light) is a beautiful mix of tradition and luxury, a nod to the land’s rich history.
Before it metamorphosised into the stunning resort it is today, it had been a family property for three generations, with the original dwelling used as a vacation home. I sat down with owner Miriam Wiwied Muljana, who is as inspiring as she is innovative. We chatted about how important it had been for them to utilise local tradespeople and materials during construction to support the local economy.
Everything from the furniture to the art adorning the walls to the handwash in the bathrooms is all Indonesian-made, and there’s even an organic farm on the property grounds that equips the kitchen with fresh produce. I particularly loved that you could hand-pick your ingredients and give them to the chef at Jingga, the onsite bar and restaurant, who would infuse them into your dish.
If that wasn’t impressive enough, the building that hosts Jingga and the serene Buki spa (best facial ever!) is an architectural work of art. I’ve never quite seen anything like it! Its circular design and modern features reminded me of a giant futuristic spaceship. While eating breakfast each morning, I’d gaze out onto the huge wraparound infinity pool that overlooked the river. Sometimes, even catching glimpses of monkeys playing and swinging on faraway trees.
When it came to the rooms, my jaw hit the floor when I saw the 115 sqm skylight villa I was staying in. As the name suggests, the one-bedroom standalone villa has a skylight above the bed, which can be shaded if total darkness is required.
It was such a unique experience lying in my huge king-sized bed at night, staring at the twinkling stars. I’d spend my mornings on the balcony daybed sipping an espresso in my bathrobe as I watched the river roll on by.
I felt so spacious in these moments, surrounded by lush tropical rainforest in vivid shades of green. Adjoining the bedroom was a light-filled sitting room where I tapped away at my laptop next to floor-to-ceiling windows, stopping to top up my espresso at the provided in-room machine. What a treat to have so much space and enjoy the solitude and privacy provided.
The best part for me was the turn-down service of an evening that included a singular truffle placed in a glass case next to the bed. It’s the little things that often turn the ordinary into the extraordinary.
Another aspect I loved about Bumi Kinar was the versatility of the spaces. Apart from the beautifully constructed modernist architecture at the back of the property, the front ‘heritage’ section housed its own dazzling amenities.
Right under reception, you’ll find Lokal Kafe, where you can order a cold drink and lounge by the heritage pool. Before you jump in for a dip, you could even step into the gym for a quick workout.
However, I read my book while devouring fruit platters and fanning myself under the warm sun instead. You’ll also find the original, more traditional-style villas here that incorporate huge sunken bathtubs and easy access to the pool.
I spent my first two nights in a heritage villa and woke up to find monkeys running along the lawn right under my balcony. It was the most fascinating thing to watch and a unique Balinese experience.
Staying at Bumi Kinar was truly extraordinary. Its modernist design makes it a one-of-a-kind masterpiece. That feeling of peace as soon as you enter the property could be passed aside as simply the ‘vibe’, but it’s more than that. It’s minute attention to detail, individualised staff training, and a clever choreography of life’s luxuries. I’ll forever be in awe of this space that now holds such a special place in my mind – especially during moments of quiet contemplation.
FIVE STARS (OUT OF FIVE)
Bumi Kinar
Address: Jl. Raya Goa Gajah, Kemenuh, Sukawati, Kecamatan Ubud, Bali 80582, Indonesia
Contact: +62 811‑9103‑330
Rates are from around IDR 15,000,000 per night
The author stayed for six nights as a guest of Bumi Kinar as part of the Ubud Writers & Readers Festival
