Often overlooked by Australian travellers in favour of its more famous coastal cousins, Chicago is the quintessential American city. Sitting somewhere between LA’s glitz and the grittiness of NY, it’s far less transient than either, making it easy to have plenty of real connections with locals.
It’s also a place with a rich history that’s on display around every corner.
That heritage is evident in the city’s collection of world-class museums, iconic sporting arenas and the early skyscrapers that line the Chicago River, as well as architectural gems like this historic hotel.
Founded in 1893, the Chicago Athletic Association opened as a high-end men’s-only sporting club, and for decades it was a space reserved for Chicago’s elite. Networking opportunities were naturally as important as the workouts themselves, and the facility included a host of spaces where members could meet, smoke and drink.
In 2007, the property was converted into a hotel, but the designers kept as much of the original character as possible, and today it fits into the Unbound Collection perfectly. The property boasts plenty of individual character, but also has the elevated service you expect from a global brand like Hyatt. The result is a uniquely Chicagoan experience that offers luxury without pretension. And just as in the heyday of the original sporting club, visitors are encouraged to combine work and play.
Location
Chicago is a sprawling city, but many of the major tourist sights are clustered around Millennium Park, the vast green space that fronts the Lake Michigan shoreline. It’s where you’ll find its most famous selfie spot (Anish Kapoor’s mirrored sculpture, locally known as “The Bean”), one of the greatest collections of art in the world (the Art Institute of Chicago) and a range of other cultural institutions.
All of them are visible from Chicago Athletic Association’s rooftop bar, and the location on Michigan Avenue puts you right in the centre of the action.
Looking beyond the park, it’s a short walk to the Chicago River, which is flanked by a collection of architectural marvels – don’t miss the Chicago Architecture Center’s informative and engaging boat tour. If you’re exploring further afield (to enjoy the incredible views from the Skydeck, say), several nearby stations connect to the beloved system of elevated rails known as The El. Design
One of the club’s original members was William Wrigley, who asked permission to use the Chicago Athletic Association logo when he started his baseball team. It’s why the design you’ll find throughout the hotel looks suspiciously like the one still used by the Chicago Cubs.
Other historical Easter eggs scattered throughout the building help bring it to life; keycards are decorated with pictures of alumni including Olympic swimmer Johnny Weissmuller and Cubs legend Frank Chance, and Edison light bulbs scattered throughout the hotel nod to the fact that this was one of the first buildings in Chicago to have electricity when it opened just before the 1893 World’s Fair.
Given this rich heritage, it’s no surprise that the 2007 redesign kept as many of the original features as possible. Step into the second-floor lobby and you’ll be surrounded by hand-laid mosaic flooring, intricately carved dark wood panelling, stained glass arches and soaring stone fireplaces. But where the building’s original incarnation was shamelessly exclusive, the design team has also tried to invite locals in with touches like the display that showcases local Chicago artists.
Rooms
Because the building has been adapted from its original purpose, every one of the hotel’s 240 rooms has a unique floor plan. Top of the line are the “Holy Cow” Suites and Founders Rooms that incorporate touches like a working fireplace and leather chaise longue, but my Junior Suite is still seriously impressive.
The first thing I notice when I walk in is the ceiling that must be at least 5 metres tall. They help create a sense of space (though the 40-square-metre floor plan doesn’t hurt), and there’s plenty of room for a deep armchair, sofa, desk and small refreshment area with a coffee machine and mini
bar.
Add in the row of large windows looking east over Millennium Park, and it’s the perfect base to explore the city.
Nods to the building’s former purpose come in the form of the handsome tan leather pommel horse at the base of the enormous bed and vintage tiled floors in the bathroom. Even the bathrobes have been designed to look like something a boxer would wear when stepping into the ring.
Food & Drink
While Chicago Athletic Association leans heavily on the building’s history for the design elements, the seven (!) F&B outlets scattered throughout the hotel provide a far more contemporary outlook.
Together, they cover the spectrum from rooftop drinks and late-night snacks to one of America’s most iconic fast food options.
Breakfast is served in the lobby, and a French-style omelette with spinach and goat's cheese and freshly squeezed grapefruit juice set me up for the day nicely. Caffeine addicts will also appreciate the espresso and nitro cold brew that complement the drip coffee. When evening arrives, the lobby turns into a bar with half a dozen draft beers, but the vibe is more animated in the old boxing ring, which has been transformed into a giant bar called The Games Room with shuffleboard, foosball and billiards.
Located on the 13th floor, Cindy’s is a newly built rooftop venue in an airy glass atrium. There’s plenty of space to spread out and enjoy drinks or a full meal inside, but the real highlight is the outdoor area with two bars that look right down into Millennium Park and over Lake Michigan, offering some of the best views in the city.
And if you don’t want to change out of your robe, the standard room service options are complemented by delivery from the onsite Shake Shack – the only hotel in the world offering this service, according to multiple staff members.
Two other spaces are currently being renovated, and when they re-open, the hotel will also have an intimate eight-seat bar in a former speakeasy known as the Milk Room, as well as a more elevated fine dining space in the Cherry Circle.
Amenities
This is a hotel that rewards curiosity, with unusual touches hidden around every corner. Wander into a public area on the fourth floor and you’ll find the basketball court with original wooden floorboards surrounded by a running track. Today it functions as an event space (and occasionally as a roller skating rink) but when it’s not in use, guests can shoot some hoops at their leisure.
Discreetly hidden by the side entrance, guests can also take advantage of two Top Golf swing suites with full food service.
For a more thorough workout, the fitness room located in the former racquetball court includes a Technogym and two Pelotons, along with plenty of treadmills, weight equipment and workout balls. And while the five-lane swimming pool is no longer operational, guests can visit to see the space that includes a mosaic of the logo on the tiled bottom.
There’s also a steady stream of playful events – during my stay, I can choose from poets writing haikus to order, karaoke in the Game Room and a rainbow runway queer fashion show, though I’m disappointed to miss the 90-minute roller skate fitness class in the Stagg Ballroom by a few days.
Service
Staff are friendly without being obtrusive, and the guest experience is so well thought out that I have little need to ask for their help. The check-in process is smooth and wait times at the onsite venues are very reasonable, with the caveat that the rooftop bar Cindy’s can get very busy on weekend nights.
Values
With prices starting at US$470, Chicago Athletic Association offers a special occasion vibe without breaking the bank. Everything about the building is imbued with personality, making it a seriously memorable stay, and its central location makes it easy to get out and explore Chicago.
FIVE STARS (OUT OF FIVE)
Chicago Athletic Association
Address: 12 S Michigan Ave, Chicago
Contact: +1 312-940-3552
The author stayed as a guest of the hotel.
