There are some of us who have been fortunate enough to eat at a fine dining restaurant. But at a place like Japan’s Tokito, this experience is elevated so high it’s almost like a religious experience. The documentary Tokito: The 540-Day Journey of a Culinary Maverick plays out like a real-life example of the TV series The Bear, except that this one is set in Japan and is far more genteel.
Aki Mizutani directs this film, which is all about Michelin-starred chef Yoshinori Ishii; the ‘Maverick’ title is no understatement. Ishii has been cooking for 33 years and has earned two Michelin stars for UMU in the UK. UMU was the first Japanese restaurant in Europe to boast this prestigious accolade.
In this film we follow Ishii’s journey closer to home in a place called Tachikawa, some one-hour train ride away from Tokyo. Ishii’s vision is to open an Auberge, a fine dining restaurant that also doubles as a tiny luxury hotel. Some people thought he was foolish for opening such a salubrious place in the suburbs amidst casual family restaurants and a hospital. But the result is a destination where every fine detail has been combed over with such care and grace.
Ishii is a world-renowned chef, but he is also an expert sculptor. He lovingly fashions the tableware for his restaurant along with his young sous chef. The process of building the restaurant highlights that Ishii is keen to show reverence for the past as the site was previously boasted a beloved restaurant. In doing so, the chef takes a very philosophical and thoughtful approach to everything, and it shows in his exquisite dishes, where even something as humble as surf and turf can seem magical.
This film has some stunning visuals as audiences are shown scenes with Ishii and producers in their places of work, including fisherman, farmers and a hunter. Ishii shows a great passion and interest in the raw ingredients. He is even known for championing Ikejime, a more humane way of killing fish, which means it maintains its freshness.
It is a shame that such a unique and unconventional character wasn’t given a film that was more novel in its approach. There are interviews with Tokito’s general manager, Kenji Okawara, and head chef, Hiroki Hiyama, and though these make for a serviceable approach, for all the care put in the Auberge, the grand opening feels a tad anti-climactic. It is not bad, it’s just that you will be left hungry to know a little more – and that’s not just because you’ve seen some mouth-watering seafood.
Tokito is a food documentary that should appeal to audiences who enjoyed movies like Ants on A Shrimp. This Japanese documentary gives a behind-the-scenes look at a chef at the top of his game and all the hard work that goes into crafting incredible dining experiences, as even The Bear shows it is not a one-man show. Tokito very much spotlights innovative Japanese cuisine, but at times it feels like it is merely whetting your appetite for the main course.
TWO AND A HALF STARS (OUT OF FIVE)
Tokito: The 540-Day Journey of a Culinary Maverick screened as part of this year’s Sydney Film Festival, which ran between June 4th and 15th, 2025. For more information head to the official SFF page.
