The mosquito nets ebb and flow with the breeze, drifting across the bed like clouds across the sky. Staring up through the mesh, it’s hard not to marvel at the intricate engineering of our two-story beach villa, built from driftwood and sheathed in alang-alang grass. The cavity towers upwards, designed to capture any errant sea breeze and direct it back into the room to battle the tropical heat.
The entire room is open, hence the mosquito nets. Almost like we’re glamping, but you’ve never seen a tent like this. The room is mammoth, with day beds on either side, a desk and a large bathroom built in the same boutique, handcrafted style. Recycling nature’s discarded timbers into an architectural work of art.
A long balcony extends beyond large bifold glass doors, left open through the night to ensure whatever is out can come in. Especially that breeze. Below, a second bathroom, a swinging sun lounge, a comfortable couch and a cabana reside. All of which lay witness to a large infinity pool, bookended by rainmaker showers.
Then just beyond, the Indiana Ocean, endlessly waving into the white sandy shore. Its aqua surface ruffled by the wind, yet inviting. Nearby, a turtle hatches, flapping its little flippers towards the water. A family of sea otters scurry past. Birds sing from the thick jungle canopy that splinters the sun’s rays down upon the island’s sandy floor.
I can see all this; hear all this, from my bed. Waking up and looking out over the ocean once more, and readying my soul for another day of great food and endless adventure.
This is paradise. This is Nikoi Island.
Bintan, Indonesia’s gem
Nikoi Island was bought by Aussie entrepreneur Andrew Dixon in 2005. He gathered some like-minded friends and together set about building a sustainable eco retreat that could offer a different kind of luxury, family stay. Different from the typical five-star resorts that dot the nearby Indonesian region of Bintan.
Bintan isn’t that easy to get to. First, you’ll fly from Australia to Singapore. You’re then faced with an 80-minute ferry into Indonesia and a run through customs. Then an hour transfer across Bintan to the docks of Kawal. Then a 20-minute speedboat about 8km offshore to Nikoi Island.
The journey is worthwhile. Nikoi only rises 30m out of the Indian Ocean, and you can circumnavigate it in less than 20 minutes on foot. But it does plenty with its small footprint to wow.
Gorgeous, ancient boulders punch like golem fists from the surrounding reef and dot the shoreline to the north and east, while a long sandbank reaches into the waves to the south and west. In between, a tall, thick and lush jungle reaches for the sun with huge leaves, heavy coconuts and fragrant flowers.
Beyond is the reef, teeming with fish. And further than that, the guarantee of a jaw-dropping sunset. The sky is a painting of richly woven colours that blankets the cocktails enjoyed by guests by the nightly bonfire.
It’s postcard-perfect. It’s heaven.
Island adventure at Nikoi
You can just relax on Nikoi Island, of course. On the north side of the island, a large pool looks out over a secluded beach and shallow reef. Here, comfortable sunlounges allow you to soak up the vista in style, cocktail in hand. On the south side, a large sand spit takes the steam out of the waves while providing ample space for sunbaking.
There’s also a day spa to indulge the senses and a great sunset bar filled with drinks to enjoy as you watch the sunset. Often with bands, dances or DJs in accompaniment. But notably, no gym.
I’d argue, however, that relaxation comes second to adventure on Nikoi Island. Kayaking, snorkelling, sailing, fishing, hiking and searching the shallows for wildlife are all included. While tennis, ziplining, scuba diving, rock climbing and more are also available. The south jetty is surrounded by fish, not scared away by the endless humans jumping off, with big smiles on their faces.
For parents, you only need to get as involved as you see fit. A kids club run by excellent, energetic staff have a full day of activities planned that your small humans can fall in and out of like the tide. Competitions, crafting, sports and more. Our kids were never bored, quickly making friends and organically finding things to do.
Nikoi Island is a paradise for the adventurous child.
Full board to full tummies
Full board is mandatory for your time on Nikoi Island; there’s nowhere else to eat.
You have large windows for each mealtime to eat, with guests offered a set menu to enjoy. Outside of these times, there are some rudimentary snacks at the main reception to tide you over, but it’s not great if you’re having an active day. Something more substantial on the snack front should be included, in my opinion and is somewhere Nikoi Island could improve.
Thankfully, the set menus are a wonderful adventure. The South Restaurant is the main food hub. For breakfas,t you’ll get served cereals, fruits, cakes and either a Western hot food selection or a traditional Indonesian breakfast. The latter changes each day. I loved being able to try something new and local; finding this option delivered a great start to the day.
Lunch and dinner follow a similar pattern. Each day is different, with a specific island in Indonesia highlighted via a selection of foods showing off that region’s cuisine. This is a truly amazing experience and so much fun. There is often enough Western food mixed into the menu to counter guests not as culinarily adventurous, too. Including children’s meals that reflect more classic pub fare.
If the idea of Indonesian food isn’t to your liking, or you want a break from it, there is a smaller North Restaurant. This offers Mediterranean-focused fare and well-prepared classics like woodfire pizzas.
I commend the direction Nikoi Island takes with its food. I was never overly full, but rarely left hungry either. It’s just a shame that enjoying it with a nice glass of wine, or juice for the kids, isn’t included. Alcohol and drinks aren’t included, but they’re available for a pretty penny.
Know what you’re getting on Nikoi Island
The key to enjoying your time on Nikoi Island is to know what you’re getting. While certainly a luxury experience, it’s also off-grid and eco-driven. There’s internet, but no TV, fridge or air-conditioner. You can’t close the doors to your room to get away from sound, heat or wildlife. There’s no shop down the road or even a guarantee of a hot shower, given it’s solar-heated.
It’s also full of kids. Far from busy – even at capacity, the island feels sparsely populated – but designed with families in mind. If that’s not you, but you like what you’ve read, then the adults-only sister island, Cempedak, will no doubt be more to your liking.
But I loved it. The opulence, engineering and serene location greatly outweighed any loss I may have felt for the finer luxuries in life. I was blown away by our three-bedroom beach villa, which is as big as my Sydney home. Gracious with space, supremely built and organically woven into its environment. It seals the Robinson Crusoe fantasy.
As did seeing my kids engaging so blissfully in the raw energy and beauty of Mother Nature, covered in sun and salt. It filled my heart with joy. While the staff and food experience are truly top-notch.
Nikoi Island is intimate and genuine. Exhilarating yet peaceful. And an experience we’ll never forget.
FOUR AND A HALF STARS (OUT OF FIVE)
Chris Stead stayed as a guest of Nikoi Island for the purposes of this review. Bookings can be made on the Nikoi Island website.
