It’s been a tough time for the island of Maui in Hawaii. More specifically, for the people of Lahaina, the region on the western coastline devastated by fire in August 2023. But the tide has turned, with tourists welcomed back as the economy and its people embrace the green shoots poking through the charred soil.
On the 40-minute drive along the stunning coastline from Kahului Airport, the scar left by the fire’s decent down the breathtaking “upcountry” slopes is evident. So is the human tragedy. But life still embraces the region, with restaurants, hotels, shops and attractions re-opening amongst wholescale residential renewal.
If you’re thinking of exploring Maui and supporting Hawaii with your tourist dollar, where should you stay? The reality is that outside of Lahaina, the island of Maui was physically unscathed and remains a place of wild beauty and surprising diversity. From cowboy country to surfing with turtles.
Indeed, just 10-minutes up the road from the Lahaina rebuild, you’ll find Kaanapali Shores, a waterfront neighbourhood rich with hotels. After the long flight on Hawaiian Airlines, I stayed at the Aston Kaanapali Shores.
A waterfront hotel
The Aston Kaanapali Shores embraces the ocean, literally. On the roadside edge, a large foyer and reception entrance, complete with a library, café and various shops, splits into two arms that reach towards the water’s edge.
Nestled inside their embrace is a large garden area with trees, plants and pools that revel in the space. There are two pools. The more popular, especially with families – for which the Aston Kaanapali Shores is particularly suited – wouldn’t look out of place in the fanciest of resorts. Fountains, a waterfall, arching bridges and half-submerged lounges catch the eye, as does the large nearby jacuzzi.
Further down, across the deep green lawn, you’ll find the Beach Club. This space offers breakfast, lunch, dinner, snacks and all-day drinks (including a 2-5pm happy hour). In the evening bands play as you watch the sun set. But it also backs straight onto a second pool, large and rectangular. Another jacuzzi awaits, as does plenty of space to lounge or frolic in the water.
This pool is also right on the waterfront. While not a private beach, as such, the way the hotel is designed with its two arms coming right down to the sand, the space in front is more-or-less only populated by guests. Snorkelling and even surfing is possible, although during my stay it was near flat and brackish.
Still, being able to easily get some soothing saltwater on the skin, then jump straight into the pool, was the lovely, tropical island feel I was hoping for. Especially if you don’t live by the beach back at home.
Say aloha to your home away from home
The design of the Aston Kaanapali Shores ensures that most rooms have ocean views. Outside of the lowest floors, looking out of the Pacific Ocean each morning is part of the hotel’s appeal.
The rooms are huge, too. My one-bedroom ocean view apartment was bigger than some three-bedroom suites I’ve stayed in over the years. The door opens into a large, lushly carpeted lounge room, with a dining table, numerous couches and a TV. This opens out onto a large balcony from which you can see the ocean’s shimmer.
An open-plan, fully stocked kitchen is found in the other direction, allowing holidayers to really make themselves at home. You could prepare most of your meals here if you prefer, removing your reliance on takeout and restaurants. Not a bad option, as I didn’t think too much of the breakfast or lunch experiences at the on-site Beach Club – it’s overly reliant on potato and fatty food.
Beyond the kitchen is a large bathroom with a shower/bathtub setup, a small laundry and a comfortable Queen mattress in the bedroom.
While the space is large, well-provisioned and comes with complimentary Wi-Fi, the rooms are rather dated. While a benefit in some instances – such as the thick cushioned couch and sturdy furniture – in others it’s less desired. Noticeably the loud air-conditioner, dark lighting and clunky fans.
It’s just important to set your expectations accordingly. The Aston Kaanapali Shores isn’t trying to be an uber-modern luxury hotel. Instead, it’s a comfortable, spacious and family-friendly home away from home. And through that lens, it succeeds.
Things to do in Maui
Thankfully, the Aston Kaanapali Shores is not isolated. Out front you’ll find a run of shops, from pizza restaurants to general stores, coffee vans to food trucks, gear hire to car rentals.
I highly recommend hiring a car as Maui is a vast place and the experiences I enjoyed would have been challenging and expensive to get to by public transport or taxi.
You can head into Lahaina, of course, to support the locals with shopping and dining, especially at the iconic (and delicious) Leoda’s Pie & Bake Shop. Or continue further, back towards the airport, to Mā‘alaea Harbor. Here I can recommend the Maui Ocean Center aquarium and a Captain’s Sunset Dinner cruise with Sail Trinity. There are great burgers to be had at Haven’s Harborside Fish & Chophouse, too.
I also thoroughly enjoyed the longer drive into the upcountry of East Maui (aka Haleakalā). It’s like heading into another realm as you climb up to spectacular views, only to find cattle ranches, distilleries, paniolo (cowboys) and unexpected Hawaiian culture in towns like Makawao. Stop by Hak Maui, for example, to learn about the social significance of a Lei.
Also, on this side of Maui is Pāʻia, a coastal town that’s great for shopping, shaved ice, street art and a swim. Some of the beaches here have big turtle colonies to snorkel with, as well as great surfing.
Closer to Aston Kaanapali Shores, between it and Lahaina, you’ll find the Whaler’s Village, a beachside mall filled with activities and places to eat. Dinner while watching the sunset at Hula Grill is recommended. Or for a finer dining experience with a more secluded ocean experience, is Merriman’s Kapalua to the north.
Aston Kaanapali Shores is a resort-like hotel
Where I think the Aston Kaanapali Shores lets itself down is with the extra costs. This includes a daily parking fee, which makes the experiences detailed above a little less inviting. But you also need to pay extra for the gym, cabanas, water sports equipment, tennis equipment (although the tennis and pickleball court hire is free) and breakfast.
I’d love to see them do more to include such things in packages. These blemishes stand out, because while they are the typical traits of a hotel experience, the Aston Kaanapali Shores feels more like a resort. You wish they were part of the package.
Yet with its large rooms and water views, oceanfront location, great pools and family-friendly atmosphere, you’re still sure to have a resort-like, relaxed island adventure at Aston Kaanapali Shores. Island Time, as they say. With the bonus of being able to help Maui, Lahaina and the Hawaiian people rebuild following a natural disaster. Something we, as Australians, can emphasise with like few others.
Mahalo, indeed.
FOUR STARS (OUT OF FIVE)
Chris Stead stayed as guests of the Aston Kaanapali Shores for the purposes of this review. Bookings can be made on the Aston Kaanapali Shores website.
