When I tell people I spend the summer in Geneva every year, their first question is always, “Why?”
Why spend months in a city known for politics, finance, and diplomacy when there are arguably better places to explore?
I can assure you that by the end of this feature, you’ll have fallen just as much in love with Geneva’s vibrant culture, food, and natural beauty as I have.
Our guide to Pâquis
When you arrive in the bustling heart of Geneva by train, you’ll find yourself at Cornavin Station. A short walk later, you arrive in the Pâquis District, a grungy multicultural metropolis full of alluring scents, sounds, and people from all walks of life. In juxtaposition to the Mediterranean, South Asian, and Middle Eastern restaurants, sprawling bars, clubs, and adult entertainment, you’ll also find five-star ultra-luxury accommodation dotted along the lakefront. This area is for the curious, the explorers, and the people who appreciate a cosmopolitan vibe and are not afraid to step out of their comfort zone.
Here’s what to do
In Summer, Bains des Pâquis is the place to be. Built on a jetty stretching into the centre of Lake Geneva, the “Baths of Pâquis” feature various swimming options, including a small beach and diving platform. There’s also a refreshment stand and a women’s only bathing area. In summer, free sunrise concerts are held on the jetty, where you can listen to music from around the world while the soft pink hues of the sky stretch over Lake Geneva. In winter, you can enjoy a hammam or sauna, an icy dip in the lake, and even order a fondue from the buvette for a traditional Swiss experience.
Photo: Geneva Tourism
Here’s what to eat
Geneva is full of hidden gems, and one day, while the frustration of not finding a good coffee truly overcame me, I stumbled upon Baristar, a specialty tea and coffee café just a short walk from the main station. You can choose from regular coffee varieties, including flat whites, cappuccinos, and espressos, or for an elevated experience, try one of their premium V60 hand-brewed blends.
All of their food is made in-house, including baked goods and pastries, and their vegan banana bread was hands down the best I’ve ever had. There are plenty of options for those who are lactose-free or gluten-free, as well as a wide range of vegan and vegetarian choices. You must try one of their focaccias or toasts, or if you prefer something fruitier, go for one of their sweet bowls.
Here’s where to stay
I’m a sucker for a themed hotel, so when I was introduced to Hotel Edelweiss, I knew I was going to be in for a treat. The entire hotel, from the reception to the rooms, is designed in the style of a traditional Swiss Chalet. Think wood panelling, plush carpets, and accents of red and white.
You’ll also find the onsite Edelweiss restaurant, which is an absolute must-visit in Geneva, even if you’re not staying at the hotel. In the evening, you can enjoy traditional Swiss cuisine and even take part in a fondue cooking class with a local chef. My absolute favourite part, though, is the evening entertainment. You’ll be serenaded by a multi-instrumentalist who plays traditional Swiss instruments, such as the Alphorn, Schwyzerörgeli, and cowbells, as well as a fabulous display of yodelling and even a unique rendition of Katy Perry’s “California Gurls.”
Our guide to Eaux-Vives
Heading over to the other side of the river, you’ll find Eaux-Vives, which has a completely different vibe. Eaux-Vives is like the cool older sister. You’ll find all the trendy bars and restaurants here, some beautiful nature areas, and stunning views of the Jet d’Eau, the gigantic fountain in the middle of Lake Geneva.
Here’s what to do
You cannot visit Geneva without walking under the Jet d’Eau. You’ll find it at the end of the Eaux-Vives wharf, where you can follow the little jetty out and under the jet, but be prepared to get a little wet.
Photo: Geneva Tourism
Another must-visit is the Parc des Eaux-Vives, located adjacent to Parc La Grange. This huge, sprawling park is the perfect place to people-watch, picnic, or simply relax. In the summer months, grab some food from Théâtre de l’Orangerie or perhaps see a show, then head over to the Ella Fitzgerald Stage for a free evening concert series.
As you wander around the park, you’ll also find a beautiful flower garden with over 200 varieties of roses, an 18th-century villa, and some incredibly old and tall trees for all you dendrophiles.
Close to the parc and the jet, you’ll find the newest addition to Eaux-Vives, 995 Concept. Originally constructed as a space to gather over coffee, share ideas over natural wine, and showcase local talent through sustainable fashion and visual exhibitions, 995, despite being newly opened, has already become a bit of an institution.
At night, the relaxed vibes of an afternoon coffee spot transform into signature cocktails and pumping beats, where you might find a DJ, a pop-up in full swing, or an exhibition opening in the downstairs space. Whatever your mood, the vibes are always high, and the people are always welcoming.
Photo: 995 Concept
Here’s where to eat
Eaux-Vives is full of fabulous places to eat, but I like to find those that are a little different. Introducing Melrose Kitchen, a superfood bar specialising in Matcha. Everything is homemade, vegan, gluten-free, preservative-free, and refined sugar-free. Inspired by California, the space is such a fun and happy place to hang out. Try an acai bowl, a hot porridge bowl on a cold morning, or create your own bowl at the salad bar. There’s even a Pilates studio at the back where you can take a class and then order a vanilla cinnamon matcha latte on your way out, which is literally the best Matcha you’ll ever try.
Right around the corner, you’ll find A Table Chez Anou, which is heaven for any foodie and quite honestly, a once-in-a-lifetime conscious plant-based culinary experience that you do not want to miss. Everything from the concept to the delivery to the food itself is absolute perfection. You arrive and are greeted with smiling faces, a warm and welcoming space, and a long table.
This dining experience is unique in so many ways. Firstly, you share the long table with strangers. Around ten or so other people sit with you in keen anticipation of the culinary journey to follow. Conversation is easy, and these strangers quickly become friends. Throughout the evening, you’ll receive a seven-course vegan degustation, prepared in the same room and served by either Chef Anou (the visionary owner), or Chef Sundeep, who has cooked in many Michelin-starred restaurants. No night’s menu is ever the same, and it is often dictated by what can be found at the local markets that morning. Each dish is a true sensory journey, with health and the environment in mind with every combined ingredient. I am telling you now, this will be an absolute highlight of your time in Geneva.
Here’s where to stay
While not technically in Eaux-Vives, the Ruby Claire is located in the heart of Geneva, only a short stroll away. It brings a cool, boutique-style vibe that you’d commonly find in London or New York, and the entrance itself is quite an adventure. Equipped with a rooftop bar, breakfast buffet, and plenty of places to work, the Ruby Claire is the perfect base to explore Geneva. The rooms are fairly standard but designed with a focus on a good night’s sleep, featuring soundproof windows and comfortable mattresses. The star of the show is the rainfall shower, which I would go as far as to say is the best shower I’ve ever had!
Photo: Ruby Claire
Our guide to Jonction
In Summer, you’ll find people here jumping off bridges, floating down the river on a variety of rafts, and relaxing in the sun. There are parks and river trails to enjoy all year round, and a variety of cosy cafes and restaurants to explore in winter.
Here’s what to do
This is where you’ll find one of the coolest sights in Geneva, the Pointe de la Jonction. This is the point where the Rhone River merges with the Arve River, creating a clearly discernible line separating the muddy brown of the Arve from the clear blue of the Rhone. It’s quite a spectacular sight and is best viewed from the Viaduc de la Jonction, a nearby railway bridge.
Here’s what to eat
Gives A Fork takes the cake when it comes to cool restaurants. With a 90s vibe, a Southeast Asian flavour, and a fabulous play on words, you’ll love hanging out here. The food is delicious (you must try the Chan Clan – crispy cornflake mushrooms with peanut satay sauce), and the vibe is immaculate. The menu is all veg/vegan, and the crew are always throwing cool events, from house parties to painting, karaoke brunches, to all-you-can-eat taco nights. Honestly, I love a good pun, so the menu alone is a work of pun art. If you want to hang out with the cool kids who are also super welcoming, this is the place to do it.
Our guide to Cologny
Down the opposite end from Jonction, you’ll find Cologny. It’s here in the famous Villa Diodati, rented by Lord Byron in the summer of 1816, that Mary Shelley, a guest of his, got the inspiration for Frankenstein. You’ll also find the Pré Byron, La Capite, a beautiful park with views of the lake, especially at night, and a few benches that are hot spots for post-date kisses.
Here’s what to do
No matter the time of year, Bain Bleu is a great place to visit. I’m a sucker for a bathhouse, sauna, or spa experience, anything that makes me feel warm and relaxed. The space features indoor and outdoor pools, a hammam, a spa, and a café on-site. I loved the herbal steam room and the rooftop pool. There’s also an area in the middle of the indoor pool where you can float and look up through a long shaft to the sky above, creating a truly out-of-body experience.
Photo: Geneva Tourism
There are family hours on Wednesdays and Sundays, where you can bring your kids and enjoy the experience together. These times tend to book out and can be quite noisy, so if you prefer a more relaxed experience, I recommend avoiding these days.
From June to September, at Tropical Corner (a great spot for water activities), you can try paddle yoga with Yoga Shop Geneva. Even if you’ve tried stand-up paddleboarding or yoga before, I guarantee you’ll fall off at least once, which is honestly half the fun. Paddling out into the middle of the lake and doing a yoga class right there on your board is a real pinch-me moment that you’ll never forget. For those brave enough, they also offer cold dips in winter and, of course, yoga classes.
Photo: Geneva Tourism
Our guide to Bellevue
About 5km from downtown Geneva, nestled along the southeastern shore of Lake Geneva, you’ll find Bellevue. Known for its peaceful atmosphere, green spaces, and proximity to the lake, you can sit lakeside at a café and, if you’re lucky, enjoy clear views of the majestic Mont Blanc in the distance.
Here’s where to stay
For those who appreciate the finer things in life, let me introduce you to La Réserve Genève Hotel and Spa. Located right on the shores of Lake Geneva, this is the only accommodation with direct lake access in the entire Geneva area. Boasting three restaurants, outdoor and indoor swimming pools, a gorgeous spa, and my absolute favourite, a complimentary private boat shuttle that transports guests between the hotel’s private dock and the city centre of Geneva (in the warmer months).
Photo: La Réserve Genève
The grounds are breathtaking, with 10 acres of landscaped park and regular art installations throughout. The service is impeccable, the food divine, and the rooms immaculately presented. Enjoy a sauna or steam right before bed and drift off into one of the best sleeps of your life.
Take a hot air balloon over Geneva
Have you ever dreamt about hot air ballooning over Geneva, seeing the lake from above, or cruising over the sprawling fields of the Swiss countryside? Ballons de Leman offer a few different departure points and experiences. Fancy a fondue in the sky? Cruise above the clouds in a high-altitude flight? Try a night flight or an Alps crossing? Take your pick. There are two Geneva flight regions, with one meeting point in Geneva and the other closer to Lausanne, about an hour away. Or you might like to travel to one of their further departure points. The journey is yours to choose.
Whether you’re paddling on the lake, learning to make fondue, or simply relaxing in a sauna, stay curious and remember this: “Le monde appartient à ceux qui explorent” – the world belongs to those who explore.
All photos by Katelyn Rew unless otherwise specified
