Brigade Dining – Woollahra (Sydney)

Local Woollahra fav The Light Brigade Hotel has undergone quite the impressive transformation, joining the long list of contemporary pub makeovers that have been strung throughout Sydney this year. The venue’s spirit has been refined and re-imagined with a vibrant, modern approach from new owners The Bayfield family, who are most known for their long-running ownership of The Newport Arms, which they sold to Merivale earlier this year.

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With a fresh look, the venue’s second floor restaurant has also gone through a big change, now working with the title Brigade Dining and headed by Chef Marco Alder how has designed a series of bright, attractive dishes that focuses on good, high quality produce and simple flavours. Keeping with the rhythm of the venue’s aesthetic makeover, the food at Brigade Dining balances elegance with a playful sense of style, speaking highly for Alder’s creative control over the kitchen.

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My visit began with a dish of Heirloom Tomato, Burrata, Basil, Rhubarb, and Olive Soil ($20), the fresh platter of various different but complementary flavours is a nice, clean way to kick off a meal at Brigade Dining. Have this one alongside a dish of Scallops, Salmon Belly Tartare, Peas, and Watermelon ($23) to get across Alder’s vibrant approach to pub food. Both are perfect with a 2014 Logan Hannah Rosè, the light, nutty texture and palate of cranberries and cherry especially working in harmony with the creamy burrata and juicy watermelon.

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Rather than opt for the oilier, heavy pub classic, Alder has delivered a basket of very light Fried Squid ($22) with squid ink mayo and sorrel, essential for those sharing between a group.

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Another interesting starter is the Wagyu Beef Carpaccio ($23) with cured egg, horseradish, and picalilli. The salty breadsticks that come with it are nice and give you some extra texture but they remain separate from the beef, which is heavily spiced with the added flavour from the rich, but lacking amount of picalilli, and horseradish.

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A main of Milly Hill Lamb Rump ($36) floats in a bowl of light bonito broth, with peas and potato fondant. The fresh chopped sorrel and veges on top should be knocked off and dipped in the broth, which coat everything nicely with a subtle, slightly smokey flavour. The premium NSW meat is nice, soft, and mild, soaking up the soup quite well for a hearty main.

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Also on the menu is Cobia ($34) cooked with asparagus, sea blite, lardo, and finger fennel, and a vegetarian Ricotta and Silverbeet Agnolotti ($25) with lovage, sage, burnt Butter.

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The most essential dessert dish here is the very sightly Raspberry, Passionfruit Crème, and Meringue Drops Pavolva ($15), a beautiful, light dessert that focuses on delicate, palate-refreshing flavours. Though if you’re after something a bit thicker, and richer, the Chocolate Cake ($15) with a slice of spiced pineapple and crème fraiche shouldn’t be overlooked.

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Far from inexpensive pub grub, Brigade Dining offers a more premium dining experience than the space’s past life allowed, prettying up the food along with the interior. It’s not a cheap place to dine, but Alder’s discerning use of produce makes for a stylish pub dining experience worth the visit.

Brigade Dining

Address: Corner of Jersey Road and Melrose Lane, Woollahra NSW 2025
Contact: 02 9357 0815
Website: http://brigadedining.com.au
Hours: Monday to Saturday – Lunch from 12pm, dinner from 6pm || Sunday – Brunch from 9:30am – 2:30pm

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Chris Singh

Chris Singh is an Editor-At-Large at the AU review, loves writing about travel and hospitality, and is partial to a perfectly textured octopus. You can reach him on Instagram: @chrisdsingh.